A visit to the Silver Sands of Morar, Loch Morar and Stoul on Loch Nevis

Following on from February days in Lochaber we headed west to the Arisaig and Morar area at the weekend. The weather was good and it was ages since we’d been out to the beaches here. Between Arisaig and Morar there are several kilometres of beautiful white sandy beaches interspersed by rocky headlands – collectively these are known as the Silver Sands of Morar. They are easily accessed from the old road (B8008) between Arisaig and Morar and there are multiple campsites along this stretch of coast.

Camusdarach – sunset views to Eigg and Rum

Camusdaruch (An Camas Darach) is towards the northern end of the area, south west from Morar on the old coast road, and is a lovely beach – easily accessible from the car park. The rocks towards the headland of Rubha Da Chuain are a great spot to pause and take in the splendid views to the islands of Eigg and Rum. Both islands are distinctive in shape: Eigg for its gently sloping plateau topped northern hill Beinn Bhuidhe and the prominent spike of An Sgurr at its southern end, Rum for its series of high peaks, similar in geology, shape and form to the Skye Black Cuillin 25 kilometres or so to the north.

We were in luck with the light as the bright sun descended behind high clouds in the west behind Eigg, eventually dipping below the horizon with oranges, greys and blues mingling as dusk approached. We headed back along the shore and a gentle swell drove in a little surf.

Sunset over the island of Eigg from the rocks at Camusdarach near Morar - 2, Morar to Morvern

Evening light over Rum from one of the headlands at Camusdarach, Morar to Morvern

Sunset over the island of Eigg from the rocks at Camusdarach near Morar, Morar to Morvern

Sunset afterglow behind the islands of Eigg and Rum from the beach at Camusdarach, Morar to Morvern

A walk to Stoul on Loch Nevis from Loch Morar

Next morning we took the single track road east from Morar along the north shore of Loch Morar to Bracora and then Bracorina. Here it ends and there is a good turning point, so long as it’s not blocked by parked cars! A track and then path continue along Loch Morar to the east to Swordland and through a pass north to Tarbert on the southern shore of Loch Nevis – a walk or cycle that we’ll hopefully return to do.

Alternatively a sign posted path climbs up the hill through trees on to the moor above, passing south of Lochan Innis Eanruig and on over the hill to Lochan Ropach and Lochan Stole. These lochans are separated by stepping stones (a fine photo opportunity) that give passage to the eastern shore and the way to Bealach nan Sac above. Beyond this a steep descent leads down to Stoul. The previously readily followed path – plentiful cairns mark the way – all but disappears on the descent to Easter Stoul and is easily lost; we ended up dropping down directly to Wester Stoul. The views north and east over and up Loch Nevis are breath taking. To the north is Knoydart’s main settlement, Inverie, backed by high hills including the Corbett Beinn na Caillich and the Munro Ladhar Bheinn. To the east are the narrows between Kylesmorar and Kylesknoydart, upper Loch Nevis and the rugged mountains at the west end of Glen Dessary – Sgurr na Ciche and Garbh Chioch Mhor. The long ridge of Sgurr Breac and Sgurr nam Meirleach is on the south side of the loch and leads east to the Corbett Bidein a’ Chabair.

A panoramic view up Loch Nevis over the Kylesknoydart/Kylesmorar narrows from above Stoul - to Sgurr na Ciche and Garbh Chioch Mhor, Morar to Morvern

North across Loch Nevis from above Stoul to Inverie and the Corbett Beinn na Caillich, Morar to Morvern

The view eastwards over Stoul up Loch Nevis to the Kylesknoydart/Kylesmorar narrows and Sgurr na Ciche, Morar to Morvern

Stoul is made up of Wester Stoul – several ruined buildings, a barn and sheep pens along a beautiful bay on the shore of Loch Nevis – and Easter Stoul which lies on the low ridgeline above to the south east. On the descent we thought an otter may have been in the bay but it was aware of us and disappeared. We wandered round the bay and sat quietly but it didn’t return. Easter Stoul has the melancholy air of abandonment, a fire place surround lying in the house and an old tractor out front. On a sunny day this spot felt idyllic but I don’t imagine that life was easy.

The lovely bay at Wester Stoul from the ridgeline near Easter Stoul, Morar to Morvern

Abandoned houses at Easter Stoul on Loch Nevis, Morar to Morvern

An abandoned tractor at Easter Stoul, Morar to Morvern

An abandoned tractor at Easter Stoul - 2, Morar to Morvern

Easter Stoul and an abandoned tractor, Morar to Morvern

Retracing our steps back up to Bealach na Sac and on, over the moor, to Bracorina the February sun dropped lower in the sky towards Eigg and there was lovely light on Loch Morar, where we chilled out for a bit before heading for home.